Zurain Imam, a leading expert in Pakistani fashion with over two decades of experience, has an unmatched grasp of the industry’s complexities. In a world dominated by influencers, he stands out as a genuine fashion journalist, known for his writing and in-depth knowledge. In this exclusive interview, he reflects on his career, offers insights into today’s fashion scene, and shares his thoughts on the future of the industry. Get ready for an honest conversation with one of fashion’s most knowledgeable voices.
Synergyzer: Take us through your journey in Fashion Journalism.
Zurain Imam: I always had a desire to write, and penned my first essay when I was four years old. I was also always enamoured by fashion and aesthetics from a very young age and devoured: Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Cosmopolitans as a teenager. At college in the United States, I studied World Literature and US Politics appeasing my parents’ desire for me to later attend law school for which I had no interest. I worked at my university’s newspaper ‘The Vanguard’ and the editor Lois Breedlove gave me a recommendation that I was an astute interviewer with my ability to put my interviewees at ease, which I would later hear from others. When I returned to Pakistan in ‘96, I began writing a column ‘ManTalk’ for ‘Visage’ magazine, as well as doing interviews of celebrities for the ‘glossy’. My first interview in Pakistan was with a fashion editor, ‘Fifi Haroon’. The interview caught the eye of the late internationally-recognised editor of the ‘Newsline’, Razia Bhatti where I began a column called ‘Death File’ recording daily deaths per month due to sectarian violence in Karachi in the late ‘90’s’. I visited Central Jail to interview Kenyan airline hijackers, which when I look back was terrifying. Later I began reporting mostly about the fashion industry and doing celebrity interviews for ‘Dawn Images’, ‘The News – Instep’ and about 14 other publications as well as being the Assistant Editor at ‘Mag the Weekly’ and later as Senior Assistant Editor at the popular magazine, ‘Xpozé Monthly’. I continued to do stories on socio-economic issues like acid-burn crimes. I am currently working with ‘Frieha Altaf’ on her podcast ‘FWHY’ where I help produce the show, alongside writing cover stories and interviews for Hum TV’s ‘Glam Magazine’. I am a visiting faculty member at the Asian Institute of Fashion Design teaching students Academic English with a practical stance with my years of experience.
Synergyzer: As a jury member of the Lux Style Awards, how do you make the decisions?
Zurain Imam: I was a LSA Jury member since the inception of the award show for around 18 years, I know what appeals to my aesthetic eye and what I deem creative, individualistic and original and always have maintained a stolid point of view.
Synergyzer: As a seasoned fashion expert, how have you witnessed the industry evolve since your career inception, and what are your candid thoughts on the current fashion landscape?
Zurain Imam: For the past year I have been teaching at AIFD and I’ve become more aware and cognisant about fast fashion, sustainability and upcycling. What most fashion aficionados will tell you is that fashion in Pakistan has become mundane and commercial with every brand looking similar with almost no originality, creativity or signature style. To sustain, designers are now predominantly focussing on bridals – for their economic survival. Even brides have begun looking alike. There are exceptions like Faraz Mannan and Shehla Chatoor, who stand out as individualistic and sophisticated. Then you have the avant-garde designers like Hussain Rehar and fashion-forward brands like Rastah and Parishae Adnan whose labels have become pioneers in upcycling and sustainability. But even then, fashion has become more clouded, diluted and plain confused. Hopefully, there will be a renaissance with the upcoming Fashion Museum and Muse Gala organised by Frieha Altaf.
Synergyzer: Who according to you is the most innovative and revolutionary brand out there?
Zurain Imam: I admire the young designer Parishae Adnan who creates beautiful and original womenswear garments from upcycled fabric from her father, Amir Adnan’s decades-old sherwanis and other scrap fabric. Aomi, Bazazi and Shahkaar by Adila have been revolutionary with their focus on sustainability juxtaposed with style. Hussain Rehar is a designer who stands out by continuously being out-of-the-box. They say fashion is about the zeitgeist and should mirror the times. So, designers who are aware of climate change and upcycling are heading in the right direction as are those who develop a strong signature style and identity. There are some niche brands that focus solely on plus-size shapes like Xera but overall most brands maintain standard small, medium and large sizes which is non-inclusive.
Synergyzer: What is the current state of the fashion industry in Pakistan?
Zurain Imam: Many “fashionistas” will tell you that they feel Pakistani fashion is dead, outdated and mundane. Designers and brands are merely interested in commercialism and selling. It doesn’t matter what’s in demand, it’s as if creativity doesn’t matter anymore. Of course, there will always be a divide between the elite and the masses as far as affordability goes, with high-end couture and affordable ready-to-wear. But the greatest democratic equaliser in Pakistan has been the advent of Lawn which is affordable, aspirational, can be and is worn by both elite socialites as well as their domestic help.
Synergyzer: Do you think fashion journalism might just end, as the influencers take over the fashion world?
Zurain Imam: In this fast-paced world most of us don’t read detailed fashion reviews or wordy fashion campaigns. Looking back at my own articles I don’t think even, I would read them now, however astute and informed I thought they were while penning them! One must move with the times. Social media and quick visual-oriented reporting with Instagram stories and clips are popular and seem to be working. If an influencer can click and post striking images of a brand’s clothing and write a few captions, this is more than enough to satisfy brands’ needs which ultimately only require immediate reactions, likes, shares and sales. I think influencers have already massacred the livelihood of most fashion journalists and are ruling “fashion reporting” despite their lack of knowledge or even writing skills, I even once wrote an article about credible fashion journalists and Insta bloggers titled “Bloggers Vs Sloggers”.
Synergyzer: How do you think Pakistan can enter the international fashion scene?
Zurain Imam: Pakistan has a lot of fashion talent and a rich cultural heritage. International design houses like Giorgio Armani, Versace, Gucci, Christian Dior and high street brands like Forever 21 and Topshop have taken inspiration from the subcontinent and Pakistan, including Sindhi culture; incorporating shalwar kameez silhouettes, Ajrak, Peshawari chappals and myriad types of traditional embroidery in their collections. Pakistani couturier HSY even dressed Brooke Shields for a Gala event. When I was reporting on Pakistani Fashion Weeks when they first began, international buyers were invited to attend, I learned that international buyers were not interested in Pakistani designers producing and replicating purely Western outfits but were instead looking for fusion outfits which were imbued with a strong Pakistani element such as unique embroideries. They did not want Pakistani designers to mimic and try to compete with the LBD by Donna Karan. We have to get over our “gora complex” and embrace our own culture. I feel that Pakistan’s fashion fraternity has never evolved enough to be called “an industry” because they have never forged together to represent Pakistan internationally but have instead been mired in petty competition and ego trips. Frieha Altaf is working on presenting Pakistan’s own ‘Muse Gala’ a charity fundraiser to help launch the Pakistan Fashion Museum. Let’s be proud of our own culture and celebrate in our own courtyard!
Synergyzer: Reveal your editorial edit! How do you juxtapose your PR expertise with fashion journalism, take us through your writing rituals that make your features truly haute?
Zurain Imam: When I used to report on solo fashion shows or extensive fashion weeks, I would work closely with the designer’s PR teams and get as much information beforehand about the collections being shown. I would speak to the designer and ask about their inspiration; silhouettes; colours and embroideries. At the shows I would be one of the few journalists endlessly writing notes. Once designer Rizwan Beyg critiqued my reporting and said “my fashion reviews were like a thesis!” I learnt to pare down but still offered enough details. My method included penning down all my notes leaving them to brew for one day and then rewrite and edit. I also try to keep my writing style in tune with the audience I am writing for so I try not to use too high-flown vocabulary but keep it relatable and crisp, using pertinent and correct fashion vocabulary and terms. Also, in my fashion critiques I try to be fair and democratic; if I have to write three harsh points about a collection then I will try to balance them with four positive things. If I felt there was nothing positive about a collection, I would eschew even mentioning the collection in my review. Similarly, with profile interviews of celebrities, I embark on thorough research of them (Google and Wikipedia Zindabad!) and recently go through their social media to see what they have been up to. As mentioned, I am quite adept at putting my interviewees at ease and making them comfortable so they can open up. When they see that I have made a great effort in researching their lives and achievements they feel respected and are more responsive.